For seasoned travellers, only some destinations call you back for a second visit. That’s the case for British travel writer Simon Calder, who has only returned to one nation this century.

Described by Calder as “the gem of Central America,” he gushed over the pretty country, which drew him back a second time for the friendly people, stunning volcanic scenery and delicious food. He said that Guatemala, bordering the south of Mexico, remains “populated by almost universally helpful and friendly souls”.

In Calder’s words, travellers can “experience a volcanic landscape rich in indigenous culture,” where ancient Mayan ruins can still be seen.

Even Guatemala City has seen a transformation in Calder’s eyes, who praised “better security” in the capital, writing for The Independent.

Still, most travellers visit the former capital, Antigua. Calder called it “the spiritual heartland of Guatemala,” where markets overflow with colour and noise and exquisite chapels. 

He added that restaurants tucked inside 18th-century buildings serve up “heavenly cuisine”, with a mix of international and traditional options throughout the historical city.

Adventurous types can opt for an overnight excursion to hike Volcan Acatenango and see lava erupt from Volcan Fuego, which literally translates to fire volcano.

Lake Atitlán, ringed by volcanoes and traditional villages, is just a few hours away, and travellers can kayak across its calm waters and visit different villages, each with its own rhythm.

Further north, the ruins of Tikal rise from the Petén rainforest — a vast complex of Mayan temples, plazas, and pyramids that once formed one of the greatest cities of the ancient world. 

There are no direct flights from the UK, but connecting flights can take around 15 hours.