I have travelled around France and its 18 regions for well over 20 years. Despite remaining loyal to the Parisian flea markets and the cartoon culture and Wes Anderson filming locations of Angouleme, there is one city I will always return to. 

Montpellier is, in many ways, France’s answer to Brighton. Although its main streets are not quite as close to the beach, it is southerly, relaxed and artistic. However, Montpellier’s real hook is that it is far less touristy that Nice, Paris or Leon. I have been to all of the above as well as other tourist hotspots La Rochelle, Bordeaux, the Île de Ré and smaller historic towns like Saint-Émilion. I first visited Montpelier in 2017 and was stunned by how cheap a glass of wine and some food was. Settling down at the Place de la Canorgue, you will find Comptoir de L’Arc has a generous happy hour every day.

This square of the city is the perfect place to spend an evening as people spill out from work or the university to enjoy a few drinks in the gaggle of restaurants that overlook a well-worn stretch of grass that seats smokers and picnic-goers.

There are a number of artisan shops selling handmade items through these sheltered cobbled streets that you can peruse after a warm glass of merlot.

Montpellier is a beautifully walkable city. Its pedestrianised city centre means you can wander from a Zara to its grand Musee Fabre in less than half an hour, and soak up the towering classical architecture of the Cathédrale Saint-Pierre and Porte du Peyrou.

If you’re not a walker, there is also a regular tram which costs around €1.60 – this will also take you down to Montpellier’s sandy beaches. There is a unique energy to Montpellier that is two-pronged. It is one of the biggest business centres in the South of France, so there is enough investment to keep the city pristine — the polished Place de la Comedie is truly shining.

But the university and thriving arts scene, including a healthy nightlife culture, means there are enough people making this city interesting. Many a budding DJ will flock to Montpellier, meaning your evening doesn’t have to end when the restaurant closes.

Winding your way through the medieval quarter, L’Écusson, you will find yourself squeezing through enough snickets to feel you may have wandered far enough away from the 21st century to have actually travelled back in time.

For the youths the Parc du Preyou is a hotspot, with gaggles of teenagers lying like lizards in the hot summer sun. For the more refined nature lovers, you may want to pop your head into the Jardin des Plantes, a stunning botanical garden and arboretum located on Boulevard Henri IV, maintained by the university.