I knew snippets about this Welsh seaside town before I went. I knew it had been listed by Rough Guide as one of the UK’s best seaside towns, and the 2025 Which? seaside survey said it had the best beaches in the UK.

I’d seen photos of its pastel-painted harbour and heard about the independent shops and bustling cafés, but I didn’t quite expect how charming the seaside town would be in person. You always hope the reality of your holidays will exceed expectations, and this was definitely the case in Tenby. It starts as soon as you reach the impressive 13th-century city walls — considered among the most important surviving medieval walls in Britain — which surround the historic Pembrokeshire town.

Inside, the smell of freshly baked Pembrokeshire pies and fudge wafts down the street, local artists sell paintings inspired by the sea, and breweries are setting up for another busy day, with seats spilling onto flower-lined streets.

Once you enter the shops, it’s a stark change from the often aloof customer service in busy cities, and the shop owners take the time to chat, giving a warm feeling to the town. 

Every so often, as you walk down the cobbled streets, you catch a glimpse of the sea framed between the buildings of a side street, just reminding you that you’re on holiday. 

All roads tumble gently down towards the beach, and while the town wouldn’t be anywhere near as charming without the shops or cafes, the beaches are famed for a reason.

They are sandy and stretch for miles, and, on a clear day, which we were lucky enough to have, you could spend hours sitting and drinking at one of the viewpoints looking over the sea.

They are all within walking distance of the town centre, and there are four to choose from: North, South, Castle and Harbour beach.

Being in Pembrokeshire, the coastal walks are also stunning, and although we didn’t have time, one tourist told us about the 4.5-mile walk to neighbouring Saundersfoot, which is along the scenic Pembrokeshire Coast Path.

Tenby felt relaxed, friendly, and with the perfect mix of shops and natural beauty. While it is quite a laborious journey which took us five hours by car, I would definitely make it part of a road trip when I go back to Wales. 

However, one thing I would never do is visit in August, when the shopkeepers told us it gets incredibly busy, or when IronMan takes over the town, one weekend every September.