I visited one of Italy’s most famous lakes but I won’t go back | Travel News | Travel
Lake Como has long been a beloved retreat for travellers craving a blend of Alpine splendour and Italian elegance. When I booked my trip for early June, I pictured a serene, sun-drenched escape, beating the height of the summer crush that descends in July and August. I arrived in Bellagio—dubbed “the pearl of Lake Como”—expecting to instantly understand the hype.
Bellagio is beautiful, with colourful buildings dotted across the hilly terrain connected by winding cobbled streets. Lush green trees and waterfront restaurants are aplenty and the lake itself is a sight to behold. But I quickly came to realise that the true magic of Lake Como isn’t found under the bustling heat of early summer. My early June visit was meant to be picturesque, but it was marred by three clear failures of overtourism.
Disembarking at the bustling ferry terminal in Bellagio, the town felt commercialised, with queues for ferries and packed promenades making it impossible to truly soak in the tranquility the lake promises.
Moreover, the dining experience was a major letdown. We had a string of forgettable dinners that felt overpriced and underwhelming, the passion seemingly lost to the pressure of mass tourism.
And finally, for a place meant to be a sophisticated escape, the nightlife was bafflingly non-existent: most eateries shut remarkably early—around 9 pm or 9:30 pm—leaving Bellagio oddly quiet.
I’ve since learned that the secret to enjoying Lake Como is simple: go in autumn, specifically October. By waiting until the shoulder season, you swap the frustrations of overtourism for the unhurried, authentic Italian experience you booked the trip for.
The frenzy that plagues Bellagio lifts, allowing the true charm of its cobbled streets and stunning neighbours like Varenna to re-emerge.
As travel blogger Leah Travels notes, the off-season means you can experience the charm of Lake Como without crowds. She said: “Lake Como, while dressed in its fall colours, is a true pleasure”.
Milanese designer Gaia from the Italy Travel Plan blog highlights how the crowds are “gone” in October, making “ferry queues a breeze”. You get the atmosphere of elegance without the feeling of being in a human traffic jam.
Sharing her wisdom online, the Italian national said: “After years of visiting (I’ve been coming here for weekends and day trips from Milan since I was a kid), I’ve learned what each season has to offer.
“My go-to months are September, October, and May. They’re perfect for great weather, no crazy queues, and a relaxed vibe.”
April and May are some of the wettest months in Lake Como, as we discovered arriving in the first few days of June.
Rain is plentiful due to its mountainous climate and the days are warm but not scorching hot. October provides the perfect climate for exploring.
Days are mild, with temperatures typically ranging between 15C to 20C, cooling down to crisp evenings. This mild climate is ideal for activities too sweaty for summer, such as hiking the local mountain trails or the scenic Greenway del Lago di Como.
Crucially, October brings the spectacular autumn foliage, bathing the mountains and famous villa gardens—like those at Villa Melzi or Villa Monastero—in rich yellows, reds, and oranges.
The travel guide Italian Breaks points out, “sunlight becomes deeper and richer as the leaves on the tree turn from green to orange”, creating a peaceful, golden-hued backdrop perfect for photography.
The shift in season also means a welcome change in the dining landscape and prices. By removing the pressure of peak demand, you’re more likely to find a local trattoria serving hearty, seasonal cuisine like the local speciality, polenta, or fresh chestnuts, providing the genuine, warm Italian hospitality I craved.
Crucially, the start of the low season brings significant savings on accommodation. According to Your Time to Fly, a prime room at a major hotel can be found for a considerably lower price in October than in the summer, proving that the “low season for tourism begins in Lake Como in October, so it’s a brilliant part of the year to enjoy cheaper prices”.