‘Colourful’ village with peaceful estuary often overlooked | UK | Travel
If you’ve ever driven the Northumberland coast on the way to Alnwick or Bamburgh, you may have passed right by one of the county’s most charming villages.
Alnmouth, set at the mouth of the River Aln just four miles from Alnwick, is a colourful seaside spot with a history as rich as its views. Pastel cottages line the estuary, fishing boats still bob on the water, and the beach stretches wide into the North Sea – yet it remains something of a hidden gem, often overlooked for its more famous neighbours.
Once a thriving grain port with international trade links, Alnmouth transformed into a resort town when the railway came in the 19th century. Today it sits within the Northumberland Coast Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, attracting walkers, birdwatchers, history buffs and families looking for a quieter slice of seaside.
The beach is the village’s main draw, a vast expanse of golden sand where the River Aln meets the sea. Split into three bays, it’s a favourite for family picnics, long walks with the dog, or simply sitting back with fish and chips and watching the tide roll in.
The beach has a wild beauty in winter, too, when crashing waves and windswept dunes give it a rugged, cinematic feel. Horse riding is popular here, while keen walkers can join up with the Northumberland Coast Path and St Oswald’s Way for longer coastal rambles.
Tucked into the harbour is a curiosity you won’t find anywhere else in the county – the smallest museum in Northumberland. The Ferryman’s Hut is a single-room structure once used by boatmen who rowed villagers across the estuary. The service ended in the 1960s, but the hut remains filled with photos and stories of the men who kept it running.
Outside, Alnmouth’s pastel-painted houses have earned it the nickname “the Tobermory of Northumberland.” Stroll along Northumberland Street, the main thoroughfare, and you’ll find independent coffee shops, galleries, pubs and gift shops. The Old School Gallery is a highlight, combining a contemporary art space with a café. Don’t miss the chance to walk up Church Hill for views over the estuary.
For outdoorsy tourists, the dunes around Alnmouth are a hotspot for birdwatching, with waders and wildfowl frequenting the estuary. The area is designated a Site of Special Scientific Interest, so expect to see everything from curlews to oystercatchers depending on the season. Cycling routes also pass through here, including the Coast and Castles trail.
While the village may look like a quiet holiday spot now, its past is anything but sleepy. Alnmouth was once a busy port exporting grain and importing timber, slate and even guano from Peru. By the mid-18th century, up to 18 ships could be found in its harbour. But in 1806, a violent storm changed the course of the river, devastating trade. The decline of the harbour coincided with the arrival of the railway, transforming Alnmouth into a seaside retreat instead.
Reminders of its turbulent history are everywhere – from granary buildings later turned into houses, to World War II defences still visible among the dunes.
Despite its tucked-away feel, Alnmouth is surprisingly accessible. The railway station at Hipsburn, just over a mile from the village, connects travellers to Newcastle, Edinburgh and Berwick-upon-Tweed. Buses also run regularly along the coast, while drivers will find a large public car park by the seafront.