My favourite UK beach has sweeping golden sands and one big problem | Travel News | Travel

Ogmore-by-Sea is in the Vale of Glamorgan (Image: Portia Jones)
I’ve always been a massive fan of the Welsh coastline, a mermaid of the sea who seizes every chance to dive into the water and glide along the shore on my trusty SUP board, the Mr Beaumont. For years, I’ve treasured my favourite spot, a stunning sand and shingle beach just a swift forty-minute drive from home.
This coastal gem is where I’ve spent countless delightful hours strolling the coastal paths, swimming with mates, and savouring local pubs. The beach I love is Ogmore-by-Sea, a lively coastal jewel in the Vale of Glamorgan. With miles of heritage coastline, signposted trails, ocean vistas, and snug cafe stops, the Vale of Glamorgan is an excellent place for a day at the beach.
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Ogmore-by-Sea has seen a “nosedive” due to its water quality (Image: Mark Lewis)
One of the most accessible beaches in the area is Ogmore-by-Sea, where the mouth of the River Ogmore flows into the sea over the sand and shingle beach.
With its ample car park, sweeping golden sands and cliff backdrop, fertile rock pools and views of Merthyr Mawr, it’s easy to see why this is one of the most popular beaches in this idyllic corner of south Wales.
Ogmore-by-Sea Beach is just a 40-minute drive from Cardiff, which is barely any further than Barry Island, and is right next to Merthyr Mawr Nature Reserve, where you’ll find rolling dunes and wildlife.
Here, you can hop on the Wales Coast Path and walk to Porthcawl, hunt for fossils, take a brisk dip in the sea and enjoy a lush coffee at the Welsh Coffee Company.
Unlike other secluded beaches and coves in South Wales, this beach is easily accessible. There’s no need to navigate a steep descent or embark on a lengthy trek to reach the shoreline. Instead, the B4524 leads directly to a spacious car park adjacent to the shore, complete with toilet facilities. The beach is then accessed via a long ramp that descends the side of the rocky cliffs.
Growing up in South Wales, Ogmore, along with Rest Bay and Barry Island, was our family’s preferred destination for sunny day trips.
Many summer holidays were joyfully spent frolicking in the foamy waves, constructing sandcastles, and pleading for an ice cream. Only to be told by my pragmatic mother that there were “perfectly good” Choc Ices waiting in the freezer.
Ah, the parenting of the nineties! Perhaps it’s this warm childhood nostalgia that has kept me returning to the shores of Ogmore as an adult, always armed with swimwear in a bag and sturdy surf shoes for the pebbles. However, there’s just one issue.

Ogmore-by-Sea has some great scenery (Image: Watts & Morgan, Cowbridge / Home Viewpoint)
In recent years, my cherished beach has experienced a significant decline in water quality. Water quality testing commenced at Ogmore in 2023 when it first became one of the Welsh beaches designated as bathing water. However, ever since, Natural Resources Wales (NRW) has consistently rated its bathing water quality as ‘poor’.
Tests revealed it was poor initially in 2023 and then again in 2024, as reported by Wales Online. It was one of only two bathing waters in Wales designated as poor last year, the other being Rhyl. The annual classification for 2025 has not yet been released. However, the sampling figures published so far this year reveal that while it is often safe for swimming, it is also prone to extremely high levels of e.coli and enterococci.
Twice since May this year, it has recorded levels of bacteria – found in human and cattle faeces – significantly over the level required to be designated safe for swimming.
“Most of Wales’s coastal bathing waters continue to meet the highest standards which is great news for communities, tourism, and the economy,” says Dai Walters, Environment Team Leader for Natural Resources Wales.
“Ogmore-by-Sea is currently rated ‘Poor’ due to elevated bacteria levels following wet weather. Many of the challenges linked to the urban catchment remain, and it’s important to acknowledge that there is no quick fix.”
As noted by Surfers Against Sewage, designated bathing waters are the only bodies of water in England and Wales that are officially monitored for bacteria harmful to human health. Once a site is designated, regulators take samples once a week during the 20-week bathing season.
The analysis of these samples provides the site with a classification of ‘excellent’, ‘good’, ‘sufficient’, or ‘poor’ based on the average amount of harmful bacteria found. The type of bacteria found comes predominantly from sewage and agriculture, as well as other sources.
When water quality at Ogmore was deemed ‘poor,’ Bathing Waters Regulations mandated that Vale of Glamorgan Council erect warning signs advising against swimming at both beaches throughout the 2024 season.
A Vale of Glamorgan Council document reveals that Natural Resources Wales declared an “abnormal situation” at Ogmore-by-Sea in May 2024, after pollution was reported in the River Ogmore near the Pen-y-Bont sewage treatment facility.
The coastline sits alongside the River Ogmore, with the Pen-y-Bont sewage treatment plant positioned approximately one mile upstream. Storm discharges, which occur when surplus rainwater and sewage are discharged into waterways or the ocean to reduce system pressure, are also recognised to impact water standards.
Nevertheless, representatives from Natural Resources Wales and Welsh Water have informed VOG’s environmental scrutiny committee members that multiple elements could be influencing bacterial concentrations.
“We’re also working closely with the Vale of Glamorgan Council, Shared Regulatory Services, and Dŵr Cymru Welsh Water to investigate the causes and improve future classifications,” Walters says.
“In addition, we’ve also introduced actions to better understand the water quality issues in the Ogmore catchment that may affect bathing waters along the Vale coast.”
According to Walters, these measures include deploying water quality monitoring equipment to record a suite of parameters daily and launching a sampling programme in the lower Ogmore to identify problem areas for further investigation and follow-up.
“We’re committed to making long-term improvements in the area and have recently secured funding from the Welsh Government to develop an innovative, catchment-wide approach to tackling poor bathing water quality”, he adds.
Nevertheless, the final classification of Ogmore’s bathing water quality won’t be known until the Welsh Government reveals this season’s monitoring results.
These findings are usually published in November or December, meaning there’s still a considerable wait before discovering whether conditions have improved significantly.
Walters emphasises that enhancing water quality remains a paramount concern.
“We continue to drive progress through robust regulation and pollution response. But we know there’s more to do. Climate change, pollution, and lifestyle choices all pose challenges to our waters. We all have a role to play in protecting them for future generations.”
Whilst considerable work lies ahead, there are grounds for optimism as conservation efforts for Ogmore’s waters continue to expand.
In addition to NRW’s programmes, local community organisations have mobilised to create substantial change. In a remarkable display of community spirit, a group of volunteers removed over 6,000 tyres from the Ogmore River during a clean-up event in May this year.
These tyres could have been polluting the river for decades, and their removal is a significant step towards improving the health of the river and preventing further pollution from reaching the sea.
Meanwhile, Natural Resources Wales (NRW) has been making steady progress with a pollution risk forecasting system for nearby beaches such as Whitmore Bay and Jackson’s Bay. This innovative project, which will alert the public to predicted water quality, is expected to be operational for next year’s bathing season.
A monitoring strategy is also being developed to provide real-time information and a more proactive approach to water safety. These combined efforts from the community and regulatory bodies are a positive step towards cleaner, safer waters for the future.
Despite these encouraging developments, I must confess that since the news of the water quality was reported last year, I have yet to take a dip in one of my favourite spots. This is unusual for me, as I’m normally quite a cavalier individual – much to the amusement of my long-suffering husband.
I’m the sort of person who will eat a yoghurt three days past its sell-by date, run the car on fumes, or forget to lock the front door at night. However, even I draw the line at swimming in polluted seas.
Bring your dog to the Pelican Inn, a historic pub near Ogmore Castle that serves Spanish tapas and local cuisine.
For history buffs, Ogmore Castle is definitely worth a visit. Established by the Norman de Londres family in 1116, it sits atop a grassy mound overlooking the shoreline and provides a stunning photo opportunity at sunset.
This 12th-century Norman motte and bailey castle came into the possession of the Queen and now King Charles through a marriage hundreds of years ago.
The ruins of the Norman castle are situated on the southeast bank of the River Ewenny, approximately two miles south of Bridgend. The castle, which came under the Duchy of Lancaster in 1297 due to a Royal marriage, features a ruined courthouse, a lime-kiln, and a 12th-century stone keep, one of the earliest examples of its kind.
Now managed by CADW, it’s open to the public for free visits, adding a historical touch to any beach day.
For those looking to explore further, the Vale boasts numerous short coastal walks thanks to its unique heritage coast with Jurassic features. The Glamorgan Heritage Coast, stretching from Aberthaw to Porthcawl, offers walkers 14 miles of untouched coastline via waymarked trails that meander through quaint villages, rural farmland and expansive beaches.
One such trail is the Vale Trail 1-Ogmore By Sea Walk, which starts from the beach car park at Ogmore and offers a lengthy stroll along the shore. This picturesque route is teeming with unique geology and wildlife along the Glamorgan Heritage Coast and provides stunning views over the Bristol Channel.
The Ogmore by Sea walk is an eight-mile trail that begins at the main Ogmore beach car park and follows part of the Wales Coast Path. On this walk, visitors can see the remains of medieval Ogmore Castle, St Bridget’s Church, and enjoy views of Merthyr Mawr Warren.
You have the option to follow an 8-mile route, but there are also shorter 4-mile and 2-mile routes that are accessible for buggies and wheelchairs.
But don’t think this is your only option; the diverse footpaths around Ogmore offer a wealth of nature, sea views, and wildlife in a relatively small area.
For stunning sea views and fantastic food, I suggest a walk from Ogmore to Southerndown, recently crowned one of the best beaches by the Sunday Times.
This beach, rich in fossils, is filled with rock pools and geological marvels, and was designated as part of the Heritage Coast in 1972.
It’s also home to the Three Golden Cups pub and campsite, where you can enjoy good pub grub and a marine shack pop-up serving up amazing seafood platters.
However, it’s not quite the same here. While I’m also a big fan of Southerndown, I’m still hoping for improved water quality at Ogmore so I can once again dive into the waves at one of my favourite beaches without fear of a ‘diarrheal incident’.









